If you want to build a fence without extra trips to the store, start with the diameter, not intuition.
An “auger for fence posts” is not a one-size-fits-all tool—the correct diameter depends on the post profile, concreting method, and soil conditions. When the diameter is right, posts stand straight, concrete fills properly without air pockets, and work progresses without unnecessary delays.
Wide enough for the concrete to have “body.”
For round posts, choose an auger approximately 80–120 mm wider than the outer diameter of the post.
Example: for a Ø60 mm post, a Ø150–200 mm auger is ideal. Smaller diameters reduce the concrete layer and holding strength; larger ones unnecessarily enlarge the hole.
For rectangular or square profiles, measure the diagonal and add the same 8–12 cm margin. This ensures the concrete fully wraps the post, providing resistance not only to bending but also to twisting.
Just like weather adjusts your daily plan.
Sand and gravel: Hole walls tend to collapse, so choosing one size larger auger is often beneficial. The concrete fills voids and prevents post movement.
Clay (especially wet): Holds its shape better, so you can stay within the recommended diameter range—just avoid over-churning the bottom into slurry.
Topsoil / black soil: Increase depth rather than diameter. Topsoil settles over time, so extra depth into firmer layers provides long-term stability.
Posts must not float in spring or wobble in autumn.
A safe base for private fencing is 800–1000 mm, and even deeper for windy, open areas or gate posts—until you reach a firmer layer.
Keep the bottom clean and compact. If you turn it into mud, the concrete will settle on weak material.
In waterlogged areas, work in sections: drill one or two holes and concrete immediately. Water and collapsing walls don’t reward long drilling marathons. If water rises quickly, drill slightly narrower and use a simple sleeve or pipe, then pour concrete from the top so it displaces water instead of mixing with it.
With a quick coupler, the operator works in rhythm: mark the center, drill, move to the next point; switch to a bucket when needed to clear spoil, then return to drilling. This reduces unnecessary turns, back-and-forth movements, and idle travel—small inefficiencies that turn into real costs by the end of the day.
Uniform holes mean concrete pours cleanly, posts stay vertical, and the top line doesn’t turn into waves.
Do you know the exact post profile and outer dimension?
Does the auger allow 8–12 cm of concrete around the entire post?
Have you assessed the soil where the holes will actually be drilled—not just “on average”?
Do you have enough concrete to pour each hole in one go, avoiding cold joints?
If all four answers are “yes,” a second trip to the store is usually unnecessary.
Visit the JEKPO physical store at Ateities g. 2, Dainos, Šiauliai—we’ll show you how to choose the right diameter and work efficiently without downtime.
If it’s more convenient, call us at +370 628 87 761.
